Thinking about all the things I need to write here, I have a feeling this will be a two-part blog. The first part will be life and Pokhara-related, the second part will deal with research. Pics will hopefully come tomorrow as soon as I get faster internet. So, on to Pokhara!
Just to introduce Pokhara, it is the premier tourist town in Nepal because of the amazing scenery, lakes, rivers, and trekking access. The Lakeside area makes you feel like you've left Nepal and entered a resort town. It was almost uncomfortable after living in more traditional areas for so long. Swetha and I had to keep going outside of Lakeside to the local restaraunts for Dhal Bhat (rice/lentil stew/curried veggies) so we felt more like we were still in Nepal. Plus it's FAR cheaper to eat local food. Regardless, Pokhara is one incredible place. If you should ever visit, I would make two suggestions: 1. Visit Pokhara 2. Go outside to smaller villages and other areas as well so that you get an authentic Nepali experience.
Swetha and I decided a while ago to come to Pokhara in October because we both have research to do in the area, and had heard that Pokhara is absolutely gorgeous in the fall. We arrived last Friday via a tourist bus because after experiencing the holy terror of many public buses we had no desire to take the public bus on a six hour trip consisting of a number of sharp turns and steep cliffs. We stopped a number of times for tea and food, but finally made it to Pokhara where we were greeted with our first glimpses of the Annapurna Mountain Range. The 8,000m+ peaks are awe-inspiring. To put it into perspective, a trek to the top of a local “hill” takes 3-5days round trip and climbs to 4,100m. But I have to say, in comparison to Macchupuchre, Fishtail, and some of the other peaks it does look like a hill!
When we arrived, many of the places where we intended to do research were still closed for Dashain, so Swetha and I signed up for a short (1/2 day) white water rafting trip on Sunday and paragliding on Tuesday for Swetha’s birthday. The rafting trip was beyond beautiful! The water was the clearest blue-green color that I’ve ever seen on a river, the rapids were fairly fast, and we had a wonderful view of some of the tallest peaks in the area. The river also runs through a rural area, so there were no visible highways or towns, just a few houses here and there and local people doing laundry or spending time by the river. Our guide and support kayaker were local guys who had been running the rivers surrounding Pokhara for years, and they were extremely personable and very knowledgeable about their work. It was such a blast – I think the river is the only place where I feel totally at peace. Apparently I’m a water person. There is really nothing that I like better than to spend time on (or in!) creeks and rivers.
Paragliding was another incredible experience. Apparently God pulled out all the stops for Swetha’s birthday because the weather was absolutely perfect, the mountains were completely visible and there was plenty of lift for us to have long, high flights that afforded us the best views possible. We went with three other friends (Marissa and Mikaela are also Fulbrighters and were doing research here as well and Mikaela’s friend Mary who was here visiting). Nerves were high on the van ride up the hill where we would take off, and I had quite a few moments where I wondered just how I got talked into doing such a thing! For those who don’t know I’m pretty scared of heights – particularly standing on the edge of a high place. So paragliding was stepping out of my comfort zone once again. My paragliding instructor was an incredibly buff Russian man named Igor. I could barely understand him, but fortunately I got enough information to figure out how to take off, land, and what to do in the air. You’re strapped into a harness attached to a really comfortable seat, and then attached to your instructor who’s attached to the parachute. To take off, both people must run as fast as they can towards the edge of the cliff. Once airborne, you sit down in the seat and enjoy the view! And what a view it was – peaks, rivers, Phewa Lake, rice terraces (rice fields carved out of the mountains), “hills”, trees…
I am constantly reminded just how blessed I am to be here. Nepal is an amazing country that’s going to be very difficult to leave.
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